Thursday, 25 August 2016

RE: [atlas_craftsman] RE: Test message - please ignore

 

You are in-communicado.


Sent from my Boost phone



-------- Original message --------
From: "'Carvel Webb' carvelw@absamail.co.za [atlas_craftsman]" <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 25/08/2016 11:51 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] RE: Test message - please ignore


 

 

 

Just checking whether my communication issues with BooHoo Groups have been resolved ,

 

Many thanks ,

 

Carvel

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[atlas_craftsman] RE: Test message - please ignore

 

 

 

Just checking whether my communication issues with BooHoo Groups have been resolved ,

 

Many thanks ,

 

Carvel

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Posted by: "Carvel Webb" <carvelw@absamail.co.za>
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Tuesday, 16 August 2016

Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Test bar from inkjet printer

 

        Roy (et al) be warned that the oil inside is usually quite stinky! BTDT!  Bill in Boulder CO USA


On 8/16/2016 8:05 PM, roylowenthal@yahoo.com [7x12minilathe] wrote:
It's hard to beat free! It's usually easy to get things like shock absorber piston rods from places that do auto repair. You'll have to take the shock apart - you'll end up with a reasonably hefty, hard chromed rod. They're usually straight, easy enough to check on a surface plate or the cheap equivalent, a granite floor tile. (If you end up with a gas pressurized shock, hunt down the manufacturer's instructions on relieving the pressure before cutting into the housing.)

Roy

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[7x12minilathe] Re: Test bar from inkjet printer

 

It's hard to beat free! It's usually easy to get things like shock absorber piston rods from places that do auto repair. You'll have to take the shock apart - you'll end up with a reasonably hefty, hard chromed rod. They're usually straight, easy enough to check on a surface plate or the cheap equivalent, a granite floor tile. (If you end up with a gas pressurized shock, hunt down the manufacturer's instructions on relieving the pressure before cutting into the housing.)


Roy

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[7x12minilathe] Re: Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Hard to beat a half-inch dia. Thomson rod for a test bar, and they are not very expensive.

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Monday, 15 August 2016

[7x12minilathe] Re: Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Michael,

Printer bars come in various diameters up to 1/2"  - most are metric diameters but a few are imperial.  My town's transfer station allows residents to pick through the metal pile so I took near 100 printers home over the years to remove the rods and various other parts (then returned the remainder to the metal pile on a subsequent trip).  Initially it took a while to extract the rods etc. but once you realize it's OK to destroy some parts to extract others it gets quicker and easier.  My stash of printer rods gets used for lots of things because the material generally turns nicely.

I used a 1/2" printer rod for my initial exploration of 7x12 alignment as detailed here:  MiniLathe Alignment


The 1/2" diameter rod I used was marginal in that it sagged slightly; I suspect the smaller rod you have wouldn't work well for this.  In fact, I eventually purchased a  3/4" Thomson linear shaft (about $12) for use as a test bar, specs here:   60 Case Standard Shafting | Thomson

 

The linear shaft is hardened so it isn't as easily damaged as a printer bar or drill rod.  Either drill rod or printer shafting can be used as a test bar, where lapping can be used to improve the surface and remove any lobing of the surface.  Unlike the linear shafting, these don't have a straightness spec;  I use RDM for spindle alignment so test bar bend is accommodated by the calculation .


I use a short test bar made from line printer rod to align the tailstock.  It takes some fussing to get the ends of this test bar center-drilled accurately but again, a variation of the RDM concept can be used to accommodate the small errors that occur in the real world.  See: http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/Lathe_Align.html#Tailstock_Align


John



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Posted by: John@GadgetBuilder.com
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Re: [7x12minilathe] Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Hi Michael,
I agree with your comments, but being practical, there is no requirement for any shaft in a printer or copier to be truly circular in section - they only need to be "polygons of constant width" as used on some of our (UK) coins:


This shape has a constant diameter, but not a constant radius.  It is the difference between a precision diameter and a precision round (or diameter and circularity) - welcome to the world of geometric tolerancing!

A three lobe version of the shape is the usual section for ground stock and is the result of centre less grinding to a specified diameter, a cheaper process than grinding to a similar degree of circularity.

I would add a final comment:  As a long term collector of mechanical scrap, I have always been pleasantly surprised at the ease with which "printer rods" machine.  I have found them to be a very friendly material to work with.

All the best,
Ian

On 15 Aug 2016, at 02:32, Michael Buffington michael.buffington@gmail.com [7x12minilathe] <7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

From my experiences with printer tear downs (100+) I've learned that it depends.

Cheap loss leader consumer grade inkjet printers aren't a great place to find precise parts. In fact, they work adequately using imprecise parts by design. That's one reason they're so cheap.

Business machines, on the hand, often have very precise parts. We're talking about Xerox color printers/copiers/multifunctional machines designed to serve 100's of people per day, operating continuously for 10+ hours per day.

A great place to find these beasts is through surplus auctions.

If you can get them cheap (under $150) you'll find a dozen or more very precise and sometimes hardened rods. But if that's all you need, you can probably find cheaper options.

Those machines have a lot of goodies though. Rotary encoders, servo motors, stepper motors, bearings, gears (delrin, brass, magnesium), belts, rubber wheels. Great for making robots and more.

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Posted by: Ian Newman <ian_new@yahoo.com>
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Sunday, 14 August 2016

Re: [7x12minilathe] Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Hi Michael,

You would seem to be of similar character to myself.

I never pass the opportunity to strip "useful" parts from scrapped machines!

Remember to keep all those little plastic gears, toothed belts and pulleys, springs, stepper motors, etc, etc, as well.

All the best,
Ian

On 15 Aug 2016, at 01:59, 'Michael Jablonski' michaeljab@cox.net [7x12minilathe] <7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Hello Ian,
 
I really don't have any use for it right now, I just didn't want to throw something out that might have a use in the future.
 
For now it will sit in the draw in a tube until I find a need or use for it.
 
I searched for any You Tube videos where they use an inkjet's rod in an alignment testing situation but could not find any. I had seen these inkjet rods mentioned in this group, but maybe nobody has actually used one.

Thanks for your input.
 
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
 
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com [mailto:7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 5:00 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Hi Michael,

It is a myth that the bars from the inside of printers are made to extreme levels of accuracy - they are no better than normal ground stock, but usually have the advantage of being free if you can be bothered to strip down machines being thrown out.

Whether the bar will make a useful "test bar" depends on what you are trying to test....

All the best,
Ian

On 15 Aug 2016, at 00:38, 'Michael Jablonski' michaeljab@cox.net [7x12minilathe] <7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Well yesterday I disassembled my old inkjet printer (Epson 740). This was done to remove the printer's print head carriage rod which several people here have said would make a good test bar.
 
First let me say that this particular printer does not come apart very easily. I don't know how many tiny Philips head screw needed to be removed, but it was a lot! After thinking several times that this was not worth all the time and effort, I was finally able to remove the print head carriage rod.
 
The rod is about 14.5 inches long but is only 9 mm (0.354") in diameter. Each end is turned down to 0.120" about 0.250" long. I was hoping that the rod would have been center drilled on each end, but no such luck. 
 
I haven't done anything with it yet, but was concerned that the 9mm diameter was a little on the thin side, and that either sag or flex of the rod would render the measurement readings inaccurate.
 
Opinions?

Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed

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Posted by: Ian Newman <ian_new@yahoo.com>
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.

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Posted by at No comments:

Re: [7x12minilathe] Test bar from inkjet printer

 

From my experiences with printer tear downs (100+) I've learned that it depends.

Cheap loss leader consumer grade inkjet printers aren't a great place to find precise parts. In fact, they work adequately using imprecise parts by design. That's one reason they're so cheap.

Business machines, on the hand, often have very precise parts. We're talking about Xerox color printers/copiers/multifunctional machines designed to serve 100's of people per day, operating continuously for 10+ hours per day.

A great place to find these beasts is through surplus auctions.

If you can get them cheap (under $150) you'll find a dozen or more very precise and sometimes hardened rods. But if that's all you need, you can probably find cheaper options.

Those machines have a lot of goodies though. Rotary encoders, servo motors, stepper motors, bearings, gears (delrin, brass, magnesium), belts, rubber wheels. Great for making robots and more.

__._,_.___
Posted by: Michael Buffington <michael.buffington@gmail.com>
Reply via web post • Reply to sender • Reply to group • Start a New Topic • Messages in this topic (5)
Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

.

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Posted by at No comments:

RE: [7x12minilathe] Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Hello Ian,
 
I really don't have any use for it right now, I just didn't want to throw something out that might have a use in the future.
 
For now it will sit in the draw in a tube until I find a need or use for it.
 
I searched for any You Tube videos where they use an inkjet's rod in an alignment testing situation but could not find any. I had seen these inkjet rods mentioned in this group, but maybe nobody has actually used one.

Thanks for your input.
 
Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed
 
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com [mailto:7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 14, 2016 5:00 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Hi Michael,

It is a myth that the bars from the inside of printers are made to extreme levels of accuracy - they are no better than normal ground stock, but usually have the advantage of being free if you can be bothered to strip down machines being thrown out.

Whether the bar will make a useful "test bar" depends on what you are trying to test....

All the best,
Ian

On 15 Aug 2016, at 00:38, 'Michael Jablonski' michaeljab@cox.net [7x12minilathe] <7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

Well yesterday I disassembled my old inkjet printer (Epson 740). This was done to remove the printer's print head carriage rod which several people here have said would make a good test bar.
 
First let me say that this particular printer does not come apart very easily. I don't know how many tiny Philips head screw needed to be removed, but it was a lot! After thinking several times that this was not worth all the time and effort, I was finally able to remove the print head carriage rod.
 
The rod is about 14.5 inches long but is only 9 mm (0.354") in diameter. Each end is turned down to 0.120" about 0.250" long. I was hoping that the rod would have been center drilled on each end, but no such luck. 
 
I haven't done anything with it yet, but was concerned that the 9mm diameter was a little on the thin side, and that either sag or flex of the rod would render the measurement readings inaccurate.
 
Opinions?

Michael - California, USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16
LMS 3990 Hi-Torque Mill with power feed

__._,_.___
Posted by: "Michael Jablonski" <michaeljab@cox.net>
Reply via web post • Reply to sender • Reply to group • Start a New Topic • Messages in this topic (4)
Have you tried the highest rated email app?
With 4.5 stars in iTunes, the Yahoo Mail app is the highest rated email app on the market. What are you waiting for? Now you can access all your inboxes (Gmail, Outlook, AOL and more) in one place. Never delete an email again with 1000GB of free cloud storage.

.

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