Monday, 10 August 2015

[Electronics_101] Lipos Voltage dropping- final test

 

Paul,
 
FWIW, I'm using an older 1200mAh Lipo pack of course @ 11.1 V (3-cell)
 
You're right. I think I may have first said 1v. But after confirmation, it's been a consistent .7 drop with the 4001. My lipo charger (and most do this) shuts off at 12.6 when fully charged. Plugging in to my test circuit, the lipos charged were at 12.5v. With the diode, the max I've seen on my test circuit/TX is 11.8v but most of the time 11.7 (never above 12v - my goal!). And, it follows it down. Ironically, it's worked out perfectly, because I have a LVA (Low Voltage Alarm complete with LEDs/Beeper) that I found in my supplies added to the test circuit. I used a .2A load – derived from testing my actual transmitters.
 
The Blue LED is steady with volts above 11.1 or 10.4 on my radio for 4 hours 45 min (compared to apx 2 hours on nicads!!). Below this, the blue LED starts blinking...but you're still plenty safe. (going on up to 2600 mA lipos? Looking at an EASY 9-10+ hours between charges!)
 
Apx 45 min later @ 10.2 or 9.5 on the radio, the red LED comes on steady and a beep about every 10 sec. I normally fly to 9.6v (typ voltage for eight 1.2v nicads) on my tx. This is where I will recharge at the latest. But, we're still safe for flying. The TX is still fine...but I WILL land ASAP! And here is why..... you have apx 8 min to land without losing transmission. Read on.
 
After only apx  4 more min, it gets more critical and the alarm lets you know it:   Volts 9.9 on lipos and 9.2 on Tx. The red LED is flashing rapidly and the beeper about 3 times a sec!! VERY loud and annoying and for a reason! The radio is then at apx 8.3 and by then has sounded its OWN critical alarm...and that's why I said it works out perfectly even though I didnt plan it that way. I would not fly at this voltage although I accidentally have! But if you will notice, as most batteries do, the final voltage falls off a cliff so to speak and you're living dangerously!!
 
Apx 4 min later, the volts are @ 9v (where most smart charger/cyclers will discharge to...the lipos are at the MAX suggested low voltage without risking damage). I did not test below that. But with the transmitter, I HAVE seen it fade out below 8.25 when running on nicads.
 
So all-in-all, I was going to use a regulator, but after reading and getting word from one of Futaba's service centers-Radio South, I was content to use a diode. Even though it may not be necessary, it has proven to work beautifully with this LVA simulating the exact voltage affects...thanks to the .7 voltage drop.
 
Darral
 
Sent: Sunday, August 09, 2015 6:37 PM
Subject: [Electronics_101] Re: Need help on a Voltage Regulator
 
 

The 1N4001 diode is a basic, silicon rectifier diode and will drop a
constant, 0.7 V through it. That may help sooth your fears, but it is
not a regulator. So the output Voltage will not be constant, It will
just be 0.7 V less than the battery Voltage.

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Posted by: "Darral" <darral@charter.net>
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Sunday, 21 June 2015

[sherline] New Photo / Paint Mixer / Test Assembly

 



Album;
"Paint Mixer"
Photo shows a test assembly.
Feet ( Aluminum angles) are held to the sides by 10-32 Allen Socket Flat Head Screws.
Questions?\
Comments?
Jerry G (Glickstein)


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Saturday, 6 June 2015

[7x12minilathe] Re: Thread Cutting - Can I Remove to Test Fit?

 

It should be no problem if it goes back in the same position relative to the faceplate. Usually, turning between centers is done with a lathe dog to drive the work - just leave the dog clamped to the work & mark the slot it's in. If you have to cut some more, rotate the lathe by hand to make sure things are still lined up before taking an actual cut.


If things aren't lined up, it's not the end of the world. It's just a little more tedious to pick up an existing thread.

Roy

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RE: [7x12minilathe] Thread Cutting - Can I Remove to Test Fit?

 

Pulling the tailstock back to do a test fit shouldn't have any effect on picking up the thread again to continue with more cuts. And yes, you should mark the faceplate so when you put the piece back in between centers, the lathe dog is in the same position on the faceplate as it originally was. Do not remove the lathe dog until the thread is cut completely.

Michael - USA
Micro-Mark MicroLux 7x16


 
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com [mailto:7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 06, 2015 2:56 PM
To: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [7x12minilathe] Thread Cutting - Can I Remove to Test Fit?

 

Cutting some external threads.  Short piece and the only way I could set up to get the cutting tool in position (to avoid hitting the chuck jaws) was to mount between two centers.  So, how to test fit?


Can I pull the tailstock back to test fit, then put tailstock back in position and cut some more?  Do I have to make sure the work piece is in the same relative position to the faceplate?  Or, other technique?  Or, is it a "no can do"?

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Posted by: "Michael Jablonski" <michaeljab@cox.net>
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Re: [7x12minilathe] Thread Cutting - Can I Remove to Test Fit?

 

Providing the lathe dog or whatever you are using to keep the work from turning when working between centers goes back in the exact same place it was when you cut the thread, and is not removed from the work, you should have no problem. Leave the half nuts closed on the LS, and leave all the gears engaged while the work is being checked. Move only the TS; change nothing else.

Even holding the work in the chuck, if you move only the TS to check the thread, and don't take the work out of the chuck, you should be OK.

The key here is to keep the Carriage, tool point, Spindle, work, and LS in the same relationship throughout. Both before and after.

Mert


On 06/06/15, acoe@att.net [7x12minilathe] <7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

Cutting some external threads. Short piece and the only way I could set up to get the cutting tool in position (to avoid hitting the chuck jaws) was to mount between two centers. So, how to test fit?

Can I pull the tailstock back to test fit, then put tailstock back in position and cut some more? Do I have to make sure the work piece is in the same relative position to the faceplate? Or, other technique? Or, is it a "no can do"?






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Posted by: Mert <mertbaker@verizon.net>
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[7x12minilathe] Thread Cutting - Can I Remove to Test Fit?

 

Cutting some external threads.  Short piece and the only way I could set up to get the cutting tool in position (to avoid hitting the chuck jaws) was to mount between two centers.  So, how to test fit?


Can I pull the tailstock back to test fit, then put tailstock back in position and cut some more?  Do I have to make sure the work piece is in the same relative position to the faceplate?  Or, other technique?  Or, is it a "no can do"?

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Thursday, 28 May 2015

RE: [7x12minilathe] End of my "test" of digital calipers

 

Hi Stuart

as you correctly point out resolution and accuracy are not the same thing. Digital devices in particular even if they were 100% accurate can only resolve to the smallest digit they can display and you have no way of knowing if the displayed 0.0005 is 0.0005,6,7,8 or 9 before it gets to the next 0.001

In a well made and marked mechanical gauge you can interpolate the position of the pointer between markings

Gerry W
Leeds UK


To: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com
From: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thu, 28 May 2015 10:52:35 +0100
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] End of my "test" of digital calipers

 
In article
<CAAv567yETsicQbwiVYhKsM=s2jg5CNGy6YVScR3ZbA194M8J9Q@mail.gmail.com>,
Mike T mctaglieri@gmail.com [7x12minilathe]
<7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
> These calipers are also usefully more precise, reading to .0005" instead
> of .001"

Don't be fooled by the apparant resolution though, it doesn't mean they
are any more accurate.

Even Mitutoyo, who's digimatic calipers read to 0.01mm, only claim an
accuracy of +/-0.02mm

http://www.mitutoyo.co.uk/small-tool-instruments-and-data-management/calipers/573-734

--
Stuart
http://www.torrens.org.uk/ZFC/gallery/winsor.html

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