If I talk to anyone in or from Santa Fe Springs I might get homesick! ;) Grew up mostly there, Norwalk, La Mirada, and Whittier. I have been using heck out of my newest DVM from Harbor Freight. Got a nice continuity check function, and if you select any of the Ohms settings except that or diode check, it will auto-range. Getting 20.3ohms even without one of the brush caps in place. Hit the interiors of the brush holders with CRC QD Electronic Cleaner and a Q-tip, just in case it had surface corrosion. Have to properly caffeinate this old body, and then clean and search the floor for the one missing nut and brush cap. Had a catastrophic spill of gatorade last night. Threw towels on everything, and went to bed. This morning I've been picking up what I can, and getting it ready to wash. Sticky from the sugar in the gatorade. Found one nut, and hadn't lost the other brush cap.
I can steal one from the other motor, and ops check, if needed, but I'd rather find the missing bits. I need to clean up this dump anyway.
Bill in OKC
Aphorisms to live by:
Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.
SEMPER GUMBY!
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.
Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.
On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 08:34:09 PM CDT, Steven Nederhiser <7101sned@gmail.com> wrote:
Hello Bill;
Mr. Ohmmeter would be my friend in this application. Check the field windings to see if they are good, not shorted. Check the armature for shorts and continuity. I am sure that there is a tutorial on the internet covering this. 95% of the time the armature goes bad. Try eurton electric out in Santa Fe Springs in California. I have sent many items out to them over the years. They also carry brushes, switches, ect. Check the power, fuses, and switch.
On Fri, Aug 11, 2023 at 4:55 PM Bill in OKC too via groups.io <wmrmeyers=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Unless I want to completely redesign it, I need the right-angle gear box. I'm not qualified for that! I could probably put a different gear box on it, but none of the ones I've found are near the right size. Too big, or too small, nothing in the Goldilocks zone. I do have a Leeson DC motor and probably some spare brushes for larger motors from my former work, that they trashed. All I have to do is find them. IF I can find something, I can probably cut it down if it's not the right size already. I am good at micky-mousing something...Bill in OKCWilliam R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)Aphorisms to live by:Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.SEMPER GUMBY!
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.On Friday, August 11, 2023 at 01:39:17 PM CDT, mike allen <animal@psln.com> wrote:Just tossin this out there , with no load on the motor you will not get the actual amp reading . Also unless you have a good DC clamp meter most DVM that do amps top out at 10 amps .
I thought there was a guy in this group that had a motor shop ? Does the motor absolutely have to have the right angle gear box or can it be a straight gear reduction motor ?
animal
On 8/11/23 9:02 AM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:
SWMBO' s power wheelchair lift crapped out the other day. New motor is no longer available since the lift is ancient. Manufacturer of the lift removed any OEM markings. It's a right- angle gear motor, which I'll eventually have some photos and dimensions for. This is the in-and-out motor for a Harmar AL-600 lift that fits in the back of a van. Near as I can remember it was made about 2007 or so.
There is no continuity in the motor, but othinf seems burned. I pulled it apart and fiddled with it, and got continuity back. Hooked it back up to power trying to get a current draw reading and it spun up and rapped out again. No continuity again. Brushes look good.
I have a megger for testing insulation, and an assortment of DVMs and at least one analog voltmeter. Somewhere in the library are a couple of older books on motor testing and repair, but haven't found them yet. Any suggestions for resources? I looked at Grainger & McMaster-Carr, also Amazon & Surplus Center. They have similar gear motors but nothing that looks exactly right. Most are either way too light or way too heavy. This is a 12vdc motor, could draw as much as 20amps, but probably closer to 10, and could less. There is another motor on it with a different gearbox. Looks to be about the same motor. May fiddle with that, and get a current draw.
Found one of these motors for sale on the knoppix site for $600, was $400 from Harmar at one time. Seems a bit fishy to me, and can't afford it anyway.
Gotta get ready to take SWMBO to get fitted for a new CPAP mask, and for both of us to get new CPAP machines. Hope someone can point me in a useful direction. Used to be a bunch of folks whe rebuilt motors & alternators/generators around here. Called one and they don't do DC motors at all, and don't think there's anyone left who does.,
Any help will be appreciated!
Bill in OKC
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