more difficulties.
Part of the deteriorating problem is that the contactor no longer works. I did not get any measureable alternating current when I switched it on.
That's too bad, so connect your voltmeter set on ACV to the terminals
of the coil and switch the washer on.
You will see what voltage is applied to the terminals and can buy a
contactor accordingly.
Don't worry too much about the contact ratings, this is a small
contactor and they likely took what was available rather than
designing to any particular requirement. Most likely any contactor you
can find will do just fine as long as the coil voltage is right.
ST
On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 7:23 PM, jimybud <jimybud@casscomm.com> wrote:
>
> Of course, the location you mention is burned, please see photograph below.
>
> I may try and scrape it and determine if i can uncover the voltage.
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Electronics_101/photos/album/710205676/pic/513228158/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Please trim excess when replyingYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
Of course, the location you mention is burned, please see photograph below.
I may try and scrape it and determine if i can uncover the voltage.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Electronics_101/photos/album/710205676/pic/513228158/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
You can not easily measure what the coil voltage is out of circuit.
Often this is only written on the coil terminal or the coil itself,
since different coils can be fitted in any one contactor.
I have highlighted the position of the voltage label in this image,
this is typical:
<http://i47.tinypic.com/4hnqv.jpg>
However you can measure with your multimeter what voltage is applied
at the coil terminals inside the washer. Most probably it will be your
local mains voltage, but it could rarely be a low voltage control
signal such as 24V.
A coil is good if it has a resistance of a few ohms out of circuit
(not open), and pulls the contactor bar down when installed and
energized.
In addition to the coil (which is the control element that pulls the
bar down) there are also contacts or "switches" in your contactor.
These are what the 40A rating applies to, the coil only draws a very
small current.
The switches or contacts can be tested out of circuit by measuring the
resistance or continuity with your ohmmeter and pressing the bar down.
Typically a contactor with 3 contacts has just normally open contacts
(the circuit is closed when the bar is pushed down by the coil), a
contactor with 4 contacts typically has 3 normally open contacts and
one normally closed contact to the very right that opens as the bar
goes down. (Other configurations are rare but possible).
ST
On Wed, Jul 18, 2012 at 5:00 PM, jimybud <jimybud@casscomm.com> wrote:
> How would I test the coil within this contact?
>
> Also, with a multimeter should I also be able to tell what voltage the coil is?
>
> Also, I am assuming that when power flows thru the coil that creates the mechanical energy to cause the contacts to touch.
>
> I know am no longer able to get any part of the pressure washer to work. Previously the water pump would work but not the heating unit. Know I can not get any functionality via the swith.
>
> When I manually push down on the contactor switch the water pump does work, but not the heating unit.
>
> Below is a photograph
>
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Electronics_101/photos/album/710205676/pic/593771835/view?picmode=large&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&dir=asc
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Please trim excess when replyingYahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
My main objective is to learn and at the same time purchase the correct replacement part.
So when identifying the replacement part I need to find a 3 pole cont actor that is an AC1 load of 40A and it does not matter what the AC3 rated current is?
also, could you take another look at the specifications for the attached as i can not tell from the detail what the coil is rated (not sure if 24 volt or 110 volt).
Again, the coil I have is on the second page DSL 33-10.
http://www.parsfanal.com/down/DSL%20AC%20Contactors.pdf
I appreciate the help.
I have some specifications on this item and am trying to learn from it.
One detail is: AC1 resistive load is 40A. I am assuming this is describing the amount of electricity that flows through the coil in order to activate it.
Another detail: AC3 Rated Current 33A. I am assuming this is the amount of current that can be handled by the three sets of terminals/contacts when activated.
Any clarification would be appreciated as I am trying to locate a replacement as I believe this unit is bad. Unfortunately, I believe one of the prior owners may have modified the wires that are connected to the connector, particularly to the coil.
In general terms what should each side of the coil be hooked to? Maybe to the electric motor or capacitor on one end and a power source on the other?
