Hello, this is my second post ever to this group. The first never made it through. There is a message at the top "Your message must be approved by the group owner before being sent to the group". Is there any such group owner / moderator? How do I get my message through?
Thanks.
/Daryl
When you move to Hawaii, it may be important to get on public assistance like 80% of Hawaiins. Because of the expense of paradise, you may need to belly up to that trough. I don't want to hear your deluded whining about self-reliance or personal values. There is medication for that, so listen up darlings.
1. You need an interesting and semi-believable victim act. IF you were in the military you can make up all sorts of things. Your boat hit a mine and you were thrown into a bulk-head, suffering brain damage. Brain damage is good because it has a bit of awe about it, and you can get away with all sorts of behavior, like hugging cute secerataries or whippig out a mj pipe during the interview to quell your pain. If U werent in the army, you can say your bike had a head-on with a suv full of crazed, laughing teen-agers.
These are just examples.The point is to interest the bureaucrat interviewing you for benefits and arouse sympathy so they can spend the public's money on you.
2. You must convince them that you are a thoroughly useless human being, never having done anything with any social value whatsoever. You might mention some pathetic activity like grooming your pet rat or playing scrabble with only four letter words. Raiding dumpsters a possibility, but its a little too ambitious, unless you mention that other dumpster divers stole your cans.
3. If the interviewer's name is Anastasia, you can say that is your favorite name and you named your kid that, etc. This is not about you, dummy, or your pathetic life. The bureaucat has a boring job, and you should make him feell good. You are there to be an amusing clown in the new state. Just dont be too silly about it, until you mention the brain damage, then anything goes.
So that's it. Forget your pathetic attempts to do something, as we dont want to hear your ridiculous efforts to do anything. That kind of ambition makes us look bad and just who do you think you are? You can do prostitution or dealing later, but I don't want to hear that you are useful, unless it was before the brain damage.
j.
Hi Bob
Yes, this one without the OT in the Subject line got thru.
Best regards
Martin F. Slater
Anglia Translations AG
Matthofstrand 10
6005 Luzern
Switzerland
Tel. 041 360 25 39
E-mail: mfslater@gmail.com
Martin,I will do two repllies to see if it works. One will be labled Endless c*ap. The other will have the OT in the subject. This is the one without OT. If you don't see the other one in 5 min then it probably works.Bob
From: Martin Slater <mfslater@gmail.com>
To: 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2011 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: [7x10minilathe] Re: Endless OT c*ap
LuzernThanks, Bob. I've created a filter and will see what happens.
Best regards
Martin F. Slater
Anglia Translations AG
Matthofstrand 10
6005 Luzern
Switzerland
Tel. 041 360 25 39
E-mail: mfslater@gmail.com
On 4 November 2011 08:02, Rob B <smileygirl7977@yahoo.com> wrote:Martin,The best way to get rid of the OT stuff is to do the following:1. On top left of the web page is an Options label with a down arrow next to it, click "Options";2. It will give you a pull down screen, one of the choices is mail options, click "mail options";3. It will now give you a new Sub-folder with OPTIONS as a choice, on the OPTIONS sub-folder on the left side will be a list of choices, click "filter";4. In the middle column that comes up, there is an ADD button, click the "ADD" button;5. This will open a third column, at the top is asks for Filter Name, enter "OT STUFF";6. Further down is a part that has "Subject Contains" with a box after "Contains", in the box enter "OT";7. Further on down is a sentence that says "Then deliver the email to the following folder", below is a drop down box that allows you to send the OT STUFF to where ever you would like. Pick the destination of your choice;8. Now go back to the second column where the "ADD" button is from step 4 and click "ADD" button;9. You have now filtered out the OT messages that are driving you craaaazzzyyyyy!!!!!!!Hope this helps,Bobps When I first joined this group, I also wondered about all the OT stuff, it is apparently in the 7x10 group charter to stimulate different topics and if I didn't like it to go to 7X12 group where they keep a tight control over what is posted instead of a more free group like the 7x10. I decided to jump in and just enjoy the topics as it is like having to deal with actual people in a real machine shop, thereby enhancing the real machining experience. However, if you don't like it, but you still want the base knowledge just use the above steps to keep you out of the fray. If you ask people to just put OT in the Subject line so you don't have to look at it, they are usually polite enough to comply. Most of all, Enjoy your hobby, that is what I try to do.
From: Martin Slater <mfslater@gmail.com>
To: 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2011 11:20 PM
Subject: [7x10minilathe] Re: Endless OT c*ap
Hi Listmates
Is there any way of stopping all this OT stuff??? I am sick to death of deleting unwanted OT drivel when all I want to read is 7x10 chat.
I reject any assertions claiming that I lack tolerance. This group is simply for 7x10 and related machines and that's it. At least, I hope it is.
Best regards
Martin F. Slater
Matthofstrand 10
6005 Luzern
Switzerland
Switzerland
Tel. 041 360 25 39
E-mail: mfslater@gmail.com
On 4 November 2011 08:02, Rob B <smileygirl7977@yahoo.com> wrote:Martin,The best way to get rid of the OT stuff is to do the following:1. On top left of the web page is an Options label with a down arrow next to it, click "Options";2. It will give you a pull down screen, one of the choices is mail options, click "mail options";3. It will now give you a new Sub-folder with OPTIONS as a choice, on the OPTIONS sub-folder on the left side will be a list of choices, click "filter";4. In the middle column that comes up, there is an ADD button, click the "ADD" button;5. This will open a third column, at the top is asks for Filter Name, enter "OT STUFF";6. Further down is a part that has "Subject Contains" with a box after "Contains", in the box enter "OT";7. Further on down is a sentence that says "Then deliver the email to the following folder", below is a drop down box that allows you to send the OT STUFF to where ever you would like. Pick the destination of your choice;8. Now go back to the second column where the "ADD" button is from step 4 and click "ADD" button;9. You have now filtered out the OT messages that are driving you craaaazzzyyyyy!!!!!!!Hope this helps,Bobps When I first joined this group, I also wondered about all the OT stuff, it is apparently in the 7x10 group charter to stimulate different topics and if I didn't like it to go to 7X12 group where they keep a tight control over what is posted instead of a more free group like the 7x10. I decided to jump in and just enjoy the topics as it is like having to deal with actual people in a real machine shop, thereby enhancing the real machining experience. However, if you don't like it, but you still want the base knowledge just use the above steps to keep you out of the fray. If you ask people to just put OT in the Subject line so you don't have to look at it, they are usually polite enough to comply. Most of all, Enjoy your hobby, that is what I try to do.
From: Martin Slater <mfslater@gmail.com>
To: 7x10minilathe@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2011 11:20 PM
Subject: [7x10minilathe] Re: Endless OT c*ap
Hi Listmates
Is there any way of stopping all this OT stuff??? I am sick to death of deleting unwanted OT drivel when all I want to read is 7x10 chat.
I reject any assertions claiming that I lack tolerance. This group is simply for 7x10 and related machines and that's it. At least, I hope it is.
Best regards
Martin F. Slater
Matthofstrand 10
6005 Luzern
Switzerland
The sensor is powered by completing the circuit THROUGH the lamp.
an incandescent has resistance, but allows the control voltage to pass.
if your senors are a vintage unit, you will need some sort of method of allowing the circuit to be completed.
I have uses 1 incandescent and 1 fluorescent (CFL)
if a CFL does not work, consider getting LED lamps. or a newer sensor designed for use with fluorescent lamps.
another alternative is a halogen.
Dave
--- In Electronics_101@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@...> wrote:
>
> Dan,
> So, if I were to try to replace the existing unit (assuming a CFL is desired), should I be looking at motion sensor lights that accommodate flood lights?
>
> Knowing that incandescent light bulbs are being eliminated, I wonder what other folks are doing for their motion sensor type lights?
>
>
> Frank P.
>
> --- In Electronics_101@yahoogroups.com, "DanielW" <daniel@> wrote:
> >
> > It has nothing to do with triacs being "cheap" or units using triacs being cheap; triacs all work the same way: they switch on the AC current at a zero-crossing, but due to the diode drop they actually switch it on just after the zero-crossing. Then they switch off at the next zero crossing, and switch on again ~1V after the next zero crossing. This kind of waveform doesn't work well with the high-voltage switching power supplies that CFL lamps typically use. In short, using triacs to switch CFLs is a bad idea, and if you look at the packaging for any triac-based light-controlling product, it'll say "not recommended for fluorescent lamps", "only recommended for incandescent lamps", etc. Since incandescents are on the way out (and waste so much power anyway), I think it's a good idea to avoid any of these devices for any purpose, not just motion detectors. The new LED lamps shouldn't have this problem (many of them are advertised as being dimmable, which is something almost always done with a triac by turning it on later in the half-cycle), but those are very expensive right now and it might be a while til they're cost-competitive with CFLs.
> >
> > There's two ways to properly switch CFL lamps. One is with a standard relay; some motion sensor lights have these, and you can hear them click when they turn on. These aren't that unusual because a lot of motion sensor lights are meant to be used with floodlamps, which are higher-current than your typical light bulb, so it may be cheaper to use a relay than a triac large enough for that load. The other way is to use two MOSFETs in a common-drain arrangement.
> >
> > Dan
> >
> >
> > --- In Electronics_101@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Mathison \(Alice\)" <mathison@> wrote:
> > > A. Some of the Triacs used in such units (usually cheap ones) are simply not
> > > man enough for the job of starting any CFL as the CFL take a heavy charge of
> > > current at switch on time, that can overload and destroy the Triac within a
> > > week or two...if not instantly.
> >
>
Having repaired several units with failed triacs over the last 20 years with
a cheap but oversized replacement that then never fails, I fail to see that
your comment holds water...the higher voltage ones are far better, but
slightly larger, so they may not fit as a replacement of all units...
The cheap triacs that fail in Europe are usually for a max of 600VAC, there
are spikes on the mains here that exceeds that...
The Triacs that don't fail here are for 1000VAC or higher, the higher the
better but 1000VAC is good, I have never had one fail..and are still very
cheap. Cheaper than new sensors..and it's more fun to repair than replace...
Regards
Andy
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
John,
Fortunately, the light has a switch inside the front door, so I have been able to reset it (but not consistently).
As for the IR sensors, I have told my friend's, neighbors and friends that the house was "clothing optional".... ha ha
... but on a more serious note, since the IR sensors are triggered by heat (not motion), I would assume a cat might trigger it but not bushes moving in the wind. Or, am I wrong in my assumption?
Frank P.
--- In Electronics_101@yahoogroups.com, "picengraver" <picengrave@...> wrote:
>
>
> Frank,
> I'm not an expert in this, but all of the external motion sensor lights I have used will activate and stay on (until reset) when the AC power is interrupted for brief periods. Don't know if all are this way. Also, they all (most?) utilize infrared sensors, so "cold-bodied" (read "heavily dressed") people have to get closer to trigger them.
>
> Regards,
> John Champlain
> www.picengrave.com
>
> --- In Electronics_101@yahoogroups.com, "Frank P" <qz9090@> wrote:
> >
> > A friend of mine has a few outdoor motion sensor activated lights (for example, at her front door), and seems to be having trouble with them.
> >
> > 1) Is there an easy way to test the sensor/light? I have tried turning it on at the light switch (inside the house) and going out the door. When I do this, it seems to work properly, but we are unsure that it is working correctly all night. Does it come on for no reason? Some times it doesn't seem to activate until you're really close to the door.
> >
> > Is there some way to test the light functionality?
> >
> > 2) Also, in the light fixture at her front door, she put in a CFL bulb at one time and the light was having trouble functioning. Is it recommended that a CFL not be using in a motion sensor activated light fixture?
> >
> > I have read online that it may or may not be alright. Don't know?
> >
> > I would like to make sure the front door, motion sensor light is working correctly without camping out in front of front door. ;-)
> >
> >
> > Any input or feedback would be appreciated.
> >
> >
> >
> > Frank P.
> >
>
Dan,
So, if I were to try to replace the existing unit (assuming a CFL is desired), should I be looking at motion sensor lights that accommodate flood lights?
Knowing that incandescent light bulbs are being eliminated, I wonder what other folks are doing for their motion sensor type lights?
Frank P.
--- In Electronics_101@yahoogroups.com, "DanielW" <daniel@...> wrote:
>
> It has nothing to do with triacs being "cheap" or units using triacs being cheap; triacs all work the same way: they switch on the AC current at a zero-crossing, but due to the diode drop they actually switch it on just after the zero-crossing. Then they switch off at the next zero crossing, and switch on again ~1V after the next zero crossing. This kind of waveform doesn't work well with the high-voltage switching power supplies that CFL lamps typically use. In short, using triacs to switch CFLs is a bad idea, and if you look at the packaging for any triac-based light-controlling product, it'll say "not recommended for fluorescent lamps", "only recommended for incandescent lamps", etc. Since incandescents are on the way out (and waste so much power anyway), I think it's a good idea to avoid any of these devices for any purpose, not just motion detectors. The new LED lamps shouldn't have this problem (many of them are advertised as being dimmable, which is something almost always done with a triac by turning it on later in the half-cycle), but those are very expensive right now and it might be a while til they're cost-competitive with CFLs.
>
> There's two ways to properly switch CFL lamps. One is with a standard relay; some motion sensor lights have these, and you can hear them click when they turn on. These aren't that unusual because a lot of motion sensor lights are meant to be used with floodlamps, which are higher-current than your typical light bulb, so it may be cheaper to use a relay than a triac large enough for that load. The other way is to use two MOSFETs in a common-drain arrangement.
>
> Dan
>
>
> --- In Electronics_101@yahoogroups.com, "Andrew Mathison \(Alice\)" <mathison@> wrote:
> > A. Some of the Triacs used in such units (usually cheap ones) are simply not
> > man enough for the job of starting any CFL as the CFL take a heavy charge of
> > current at switch on time, that can overload and destroy the Triac within a
> > week or two...if not instantly.
>
