Sand/bead blasting would be great but it's just a dream for me. I just don't have the space for it, so electrolysis is a good alternative.
  
  I use a big plastic bucket with a double steel hoop made of 1/2" square bar all round the inside. When it gets covered in rust I just whiz around it with the angle grinder until I see bright metal then I'm good to go!
  
  I stripped a Myford MF32 lathe back to bare metal a couple of years ago and treated all the parts with electrolysis - came up really good.
  
  Clive
  
  --- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Scott Henion <shenion@...> wrote:
  >
  > On 8/13/2012 3:43 AM, Clive wrote:
  > > Well done on the electrolysis. I've been using it for quite a few years with brilliant results - IIRC I saw the instructions on Instructables.
  > 
  > Been on my 2do list for a long time. Since I got a sand blast cabinet
  > and glass bead, have not had a real need for it.
  > 
  > The supply goes from 0-30V up to 15 amps or more. So I should be able to
  > do something fairly big.
  > 
  > Would have been nice for my old 109 lathe. The old 4-jaw chuck was a bit
  > rusty. A few minutes bead blasting and looked like new. Then spent a
  > long time getting the beads out of the threads :(
  > 
  > Bead blasting is great as it does not remove material (or very little.)
  > Great on aluminum as it shatters the brittle oxide layer then bounces
  > off the bare metal.
  > 
  > >
  > > I use an ATX computer power supply to power mine. If you short the green wire in the motherboard plug to any black wire with a paperclip, the power supply thinks it's connected to a motherboard and will happily deliver 5 and 12 volts from the Molex hard disk connectors at pretty high amperages.
  > >
  > > I've heard dire warnings against this but have never had any problems over a period of years . . . 
  > 
  > The issue is the power supply may shut down.
  > 
  > I built a router in a 1U case. An old PIII. It had no hard disk, just a
  > compact flash drive. So it did not use much +5V or +12V. It had a nasty
  > habit of shutting down. I had to add a dummy load to the +5V, then it
  > was better. Still did it once in a while. Ended up sticking and old CD
  > drive as another dummy load ;) Supply died and could not find a
  > replacement under 200W so had to go to another case (old supply had near
  > 0 airflow).
  > 
  > What happens is the several voltages may not be independently regulated,
  > just different windings of the core. If one supply is loaded and the
  > other is not; the unloaded supply may reach over-voltage and the supply
  > will shut down.
  > 
  > Or the opposite will happen. The unloaded supply is the one that is
  > regulated and the used one may not provide much power.
  > 
  > Some supplies may have a crowbar to protect from over-voltage. That
  > could be tripped also (and cheap supplies may just die when this happens.)
  > 
  > I had an old AT supply that I cut the DC power leads and connected them
  > to a barrier strip. Made a nice bench supply. I used to call it my "Tube
  > supply" as it glowed like an old tube amp. That's because I had an auto
  > tail light inside on the +5V to keep the supply stable giving a dim
  > orange glow ;)
  > 
  > -- 
  > 
  > ------------------------------------
  > 	Scott G. Henion
  > Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
  > http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36
  > ------------------------------------
  >
  
  
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