Monday, 13 August 2012

[atlas_craftsman] Re: My rust removal test

 

Sand/bead blasting would be great but it's just a dream for me. I just don't have the space for it, so electrolysis is a good alternative.

I use a big plastic bucket with a double steel hoop made of 1/2" square bar all round the inside. When it gets covered in rust I just whiz around it with the angle grinder until I see bright metal then I'm good to go!

I stripped a Myford MF32 lathe back to bare metal a couple of years ago and treated all the parts with electrolysis - came up really good.

Clive

--- In atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com, Scott Henion <shenion@...> wrote:
>
> On 8/13/2012 3:43 AM, Clive wrote:
> > Well done on the electrolysis. I've been using it for quite a few years with brilliant results - IIRC I saw the instructions on Instructables.
>
> Been on my 2do list for a long time. Since I got a sand blast cabinet
> and glass bead, have not had a real need for it.
>
> The supply goes from 0-30V up to 15 amps or more. So I should be able to
> do something fairly big.
>
> Would have been nice for my old 109 lathe. The old 4-jaw chuck was a bit
> rusty. A few minutes bead blasting and looked like new. Then spent a
> long time getting the beads out of the threads :(
>
> Bead blasting is great as it does not remove material (or very little.)
> Great on aluminum as it shatters the brittle oxide layer then bounces
> off the bare metal.
>
> >
> > I use an ATX computer power supply to power mine. If you short the green wire in the motherboard plug to any black wire with a paperclip, the power supply thinks it's connected to a motherboard and will happily deliver 5 and 12 volts from the Molex hard disk connectors at pretty high amperages.
> >
> > I've heard dire warnings against this but have never had any problems over a period of years . . .
>
> The issue is the power supply may shut down.
>
> I built a router in a 1U case. An old PIII. It had no hard disk, just a
> compact flash drive. So it did not use much +5V or +12V. It had a nasty
> habit of shutting down. I had to add a dummy load to the +5V, then it
> was better. Still did it once in a while. Ended up sticking and old CD
> drive as another dummy load ;) Supply died and could not find a
> replacement under 200W so had to go to another case (old supply had near
> 0 airflow).
>
> What happens is the several voltages may not be independently regulated,
> just different windings of the core. If one supply is loaded and the
> other is not; the unloaded supply may reach over-voltage and the supply
> will shut down.
>
> Or the opposite will happen. The unloaded supply is the one that is
> regulated and the used one may not provide much power.
>
> Some supplies may have a crowbar to protect from over-voltage. That
> could be tripped also (and cheap supplies may just die when this happens.)
>
> I had an old AT supply that I cut the DC power leads and connected them
> to a barrier strip. Made a nice bench supply. I used to call it my "Tube
> supply" as it glowed like an old tube amp. That's because I had an auto
> tail light inside on the +5V to keep the supply stable giving a dim
> orange glow ;)
>
> --
>
> ------------------------------------
> Scott G. Henion
> Craftsman 12x36 lathe:
> http://shdesigns.org/Craftsman12x36
> ------------------------------------
>

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