Thursday, 25 August 2016

RE: [atlas_craftsman] RE: Test message - please ignore

 

You are in-communicado.


Sent from my Boost phone



-------- Original message --------
From: "'Carvel Webb' carvelw@absamail.co.za [atlas_craftsman]" <atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 25/08/2016 11:51 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: atlas_craftsman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [atlas_craftsman] RE: Test message - please ignore


 

 

 

Just checking whether my communication issues with BooHoo Groups have been resolved ,

 

Many thanks ,

 

Carvel

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[atlas_craftsman] RE: Test message - please ignore

 

 

 

Just checking whether my communication issues with BooHoo Groups have been resolved ,

 

Many thanks ,

 

Carvel

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Posted by: "Carvel Webb" <carvelw@absamail.co.za>
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Tuesday, 16 August 2016

Re: [7x12minilathe] Re: Test bar from inkjet printer

 

        Roy (et al) be warned that the oil inside is usually quite stinky! BTDT!  Bill in Boulder CO USA


On 8/16/2016 8:05 PM, roylowenthal@yahoo.com [7x12minilathe] wrote:
It's hard to beat free! It's usually easy to get things like shock absorber piston rods from places that do auto repair. You'll have to take the shock apart - you'll end up with a reasonably hefty, hard chromed rod. They're usually straight, easy enough to check on a surface plate or the cheap equivalent, a granite floor tile. (If you end up with a gas pressurized shock, hunt down the manufacturer's instructions on relieving the pressure before cutting into the housing.)

Roy

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Posted by: Bill Williams <bwmsbldr1@gmail.com>
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[7x12minilathe] Re: Test bar from inkjet printer

 

It's hard to beat free! It's usually easy to get things like shock absorber piston rods from places that do auto repair. You'll have to take the shock apart - you'll end up with a reasonably hefty, hard chromed rod. They're usually straight, easy enough to check on a surface plate or the cheap equivalent, a granite floor tile. (If you end up with a gas pressurized shock, hunt down the manufacturer's instructions on relieving the pressure before cutting into the housing.)


Roy

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Posted by: roylowenthal@yahoo.com
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[7x12minilathe] Re: Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Hard to beat a half-inch dia. Thomson rod for a test bar, and they are not very expensive.

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Posted by: blkthm@yahoo.com
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Monday, 15 August 2016

[7x12minilathe] Re: Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Michael,

Printer bars come in various diameters up to 1/2"  - most are metric diameters but a few are imperial.  My town's transfer station allows residents to pick through the metal pile so I took near 100 printers home over the years to remove the rods and various other parts (then returned the remainder to the metal pile on a subsequent trip).  Initially it took a while to extract the rods etc. but once you realize it's OK to destroy some parts to extract others it gets quicker and easier.  My stash of printer rods gets used for lots of things because the material generally turns nicely.

I used a 1/2" printer rod for my initial exploration of 7x12 alignment as detailed here:  MiniLathe Alignment


The 1/2" diameter rod I used was marginal in that it sagged slightly; I suspect the smaller rod you have wouldn't work well for this.  In fact, I eventually purchased a  3/4" Thomson linear shaft (about $12) for use as a test bar, specs here:   60 Case Standard Shafting | Thomson

 

The linear shaft is hardened so it isn't as easily damaged as a printer bar or drill rod.  Either drill rod or printer shafting can be used as a test bar, where lapping can be used to improve the surface and remove any lobing of the surface.  Unlike the linear shafting, these don't have a straightness spec;  I use RDM for spindle alignment so test bar bend is accommodated by the calculation .


I use a short test bar made from line printer rod to align the tailstock.  It takes some fussing to get the ends of this test bar center-drilled accurately but again, a variation of the RDM concept can be used to accommodate the small errors that occur in the real world.  See: http://www.gadgetbuilder.com/Lathe_Align.html#Tailstock_Align


John



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Posted by: John@GadgetBuilder.com
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Re: [7x12minilathe] Test bar from inkjet printer

 

Hi Michael,
I agree with your comments, but being practical, there is no requirement for any shaft in a printer or copier to be truly circular in section - they only need to be "polygons of constant width" as used on some of our (UK) coins:


This shape has a constant diameter, but not a constant radius.  It is the difference between a precision diameter and a precision round (or diameter and circularity) - welcome to the world of geometric tolerancing!

A three lobe version of the shape is the usual section for ground stock and is the result of centre less grinding to a specified diameter, a cheaper process than grinding to a similar degree of circularity.

I would add a final comment:  As a long term collector of mechanical scrap, I have always been pleasantly surprised at the ease with which "printer rods" machine.  I have found them to be a very friendly material to work with.

All the best,
Ian

On 15 Aug 2016, at 02:32, Michael Buffington michael.buffington@gmail.com [7x12minilathe] <7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

 

From my experiences with printer tear downs (100+) I've learned that it depends.

Cheap loss leader consumer grade inkjet printers aren't a great place to find precise parts. In fact, they work adequately using imprecise parts by design. That's one reason they're so cheap.

Business machines, on the hand, often have very precise parts. We're talking about Xerox color printers/copiers/multifunctional machines designed to serve 100's of people per day, operating continuously for 10+ hours per day.

A great place to find these beasts is through surplus auctions.

If you can get them cheap (under $150) you'll find a dozen or more very precise and sometimes hardened rods. But if that's all you need, you can probably find cheaper options.

Those machines have a lot of goodies though. Rotary encoders, servo motors, stepper motors, bearings, gears (delrin, brass, magnesium), belts, rubber wheels. Great for making robots and more.

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Posted by: Ian Newman <ian_new@yahoo.com>
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