Saturday, 16 April 2016

Re: [Amateur-repairs] Re: "sick" Bird 43

 

I watched the short movie. I can see the procedure you are using.
Are you connected directly to the terminals on the meter with the meter
disconnected from the rest of the instrument? I am sorry if this seems
obvious but with something this puzzling you must check everything. I
can't help but think the problem is not the meter movement. If you are
sure of the full scale current then it could be the meter but I strongly
suggest taking the meter out of the case and looking to see if there is
a shunt inside. If there is it may be bad although I would expect the
value to go up rather than down. If you intend to replace the meter
anyway you can do no harm this way. Now, another thing to look at. I
assume you have looked at the zero reading. If not make sure the pointer
is zeroed. Adjust the zero screw to make sure. Sometimes the stop at
the zero end is right at zero so if the zero adjustment can't bring the
pointer below zero and it looks correct. Bring it above zero a little
and then back. Somehow I really do not want you to give up on this thing.

On 4/16/2016 6:36 PM, christopherlarwood@gmail.com [Amateur-repairs] wrote:
> I really appreciate all the comments and help. I've forked out nearly $300 on the meter, elements and peak kit and postage to Australia, so not going to give up on it without having a good crack at it. The meter in question is a Dielectric 1000A - the Coaxial Dynamics 81000A looks to be the same instrument but they all are thruline type meters as is the Bird 43.
>
>
> But it has a rectangular meter and a bird meter wont fit.
>
>
> I have tested 3 different elements in the meter. 2 x HF which both read low in my meter but correctly in another Bird meter. Satisfied with the HF elements, haven't compared the VHF one.
>
>
> Here is the clip showing the FSD test - a variable bench power supply is on my buy list. Funny how everytime I put something on my fix list, this invariably means adding several items to my need to buy list!
> Wattmeter FSD test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Ew8wQwSI4
>
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Ew8wQwSI4
>
> Wattmeter FSD test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Ew8wQwSI4 Using simple test method, I check the FSD current of my wattmeter. It is rated as 30 uA. My test shows 30.3 uA were required for FSD Just under 40 uA was...
>
>
>
> View on www.youtube.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Ew8wQwSI4
> Preview by Yahoo
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
> Posted by: christopherlarwood@gmail.com
> ------------------------------------
>
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--
Richard Knoppow
1oldlens1@ix.netcom.com
WB6KBL

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Amateur-repairs] Re: "sick" Bird 43

 

I really appreciate all the comments and help. I've forked out nearly $300 on the meter, elements and peak kit and postage to Australia, so not going to give up on it without having a good crack at it. The meter in question is a Dielectric 1000A - the Coaxial Dynamics 81000A looks to be the same instrument but they all are thruline type meters as is the Bird 43.


But it has a rectangular meter and a bird meter wont fit.


I have tested 3 different elements in the meter. 2 x HF which both read low in my meter but correctly in another Bird meter. Satisfied with the HF elements, haven't compared the VHF one.


Here is the clip showing the FSD test - a variable bench power supply is on my buy list. Funny how everytime I put something on my fix list, this invariably means adding several items to my need to buy list!
Wattmeter FSD test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Ew8wQwSI4


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Ew8wQwSI4

Wattmeter FSD test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Ew8wQwSI4 Using simple test method, I check the FSD current of my wattmeter. It is rated as 30 uA. My test shows 30.3 uA were required for FSD Just under 40 uA was...



View on www.youtube.com https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1Ew8wQwSI4
Preview by Yahoo





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Wednesday, 13 April 2016

[Amateur-repairs] Re: "sick" Bird 43

 

I did some power tests using the Dielectric 25 w VHF element - here is the clip


Dielectric RF wattmeter power reading test https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-WMNAD6c2NA


I Wouldn't think the lower power results to be considered within spec/tolerance?
But the closer to full scale , it was very accurate to the TX power - and that's where +/- 5% is the given tolerance?


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Monday, 14 March 2016

[sherline] Photo added as a test

 

I had trouble loading a pdf the other day, it related to the custom watch and a possible way to tighten 6 slotted screws in identical position around a 360 pcd, I was successful with my test photo, 


I will now try the pdf, and notify if successful,


Edmund.........Alberta

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Friday, 19 February 2016

[9x20Lathe] test

 
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Wednesday, 17 February 2016

Re: [7x12minilathe] Threading

 

Thanks Walt, yes I am pretty sure I can manage to cut threads at a very slow speed.
I heavily modded my mini lathe during the restoration.
I added a treadmill 2.9 hp motor with a treadmill controller and by passed the internal gearing that drives the lathe.

I can bring the lathe to a literal crawl and still make cuts to do threads.

I do not know if we are allowed to post links for videos on the mods.

Here is a link showing what kind of depth of cuts I can take.
I added angular contact bearings as well lapped my cross slides to get nice smooth tight action.
I can even part with very low rpms and have a great deal of torque and as well consistent speed while under load.
I do not show a video demonstrating this and will do one showing the low end rpm capability.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Much appreciated being such a brand new novice to all this.

From: "Walt Hutchens waltah@earthlink.net [7x12minilathe]" <7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com>
To: "ckinzer@att.net [7x12minilathe]" <7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 2016 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [7x12minilathe] Threading

 
ckinzer@att.net said:

> On a mini-lathe it would be way better to do it using a hand crank
> in the spindle (there are plans for these around). The mini-lathe
> isn't really good for doing slow speeds.

> Your typical 12 x 36 lathe such as from Grizzly will go down to 70 rpm.

All true but just for another perspective: I'm pretty new at this and
I've cut a metric thread with a lead (advance per revolution) of 2.8
mm which isn't far from 8 TPI under power. It required care but wasn't
really 'exciting.' Like so much else with machine tools it requires
thinking ahead and preparation, that's all.

TRY a feed of 8 TPI (gears as suggested earlier on this thread) with
the carriage well away from everything and the RPM as low as it will
go and be stable on your machine. Could you control that for the job
you're planning? For 8 TPI a mini-lathe may require a dozen or more
passes; can you stop the cut so many times with the accuracy needed
for the part you're making?

Cutting up to a shoulder with a minimal run out groove is a lot more
challenging than if you have an inch of clearance in which to get
stopped!

There are mods to the mini-lathe that will reduce the RPM by up to
1/2: something to keep in mind if much threading is to be done.

Walt Hutchens
7x14 MicroLux 2-7x10 HF/CM



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Monday, 11 January 2016

SV: [7x12minilathe] test

 

Test msg. come Through!.  Open it in OUTLOOK.

(I have missed you)

/johannes

 

Fra: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com [mailto:7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com]
Sendt: 11. januar 2016 10:09
Til: 7x12minilathe@yahoogroups.com
Emne: [7x12minilathe] test

 

 

test

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