Metalwork - Lathe and Mill topics: 2023

Sunday, 31 December 2023

[Amateur-repairs] Test Gear For Sale Starting with a "HEATHKIT IP-5220 AC Adjustable Power Supply"

Selling a HEATHKIT IP-5220 AC Power Supply. With original Manual. I am selling this for the original builder and owner. He is cutting back and downsizing.
Unit works as expected. Cosmetically very good, a little more Windex may help. Except for the front panel lower left. The paint/stencil? is marred. He did not remember why. See pictures.
. Much better than just a Variac. More stuff to come
$200 pick up in South Aiken County South Carolina. It is pretty heavy with the big transformer Not sure what shipping would cost.

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Monday, 25 December 2023

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Hi All

Regardless of what equipment is provided on the bench you need a clearly
illuminated single point for switching the bench on and off including
the item under test that everyone in the house knows about in case you
get into trouble.

Out of interest I do not support the variac and lamp method of reforming
electrolytics in old gear. I prefer the longer method of using a series
resistor and separate supply - article on my technical website explains
my method but everyone to their own.

Best wishes for the new year

--
73

Bob

Bob F Burns G3OOU, G-QRP 6907, @BobFBurns
Crystal Palace Radio & Electronics Club: https://www.cprec.org/
Admin/sales site: http://www.g3oou.co.uk/
Technical site: www.qsl.net/g3oou

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

I use halogen bulbs as they are readily available. My dim bulb tester a 20A Variac and has halogen bulbs inside a cabinet, a rotary switch to select from 7.5W (a panel mounted bulb across the bulbs) connected in a Binary arrangement so I can select 7.5w to 507.5W in 50W increments. The last selection of the knob connects the output directly to the load.

I also included a digital display indicating output volts, load current and wattage. There is a 100W isolation transformer inside as well for AC-DC sets. It makes things a lot easier to have all of this inside one reasonably sized cabinet, and no possibility of damaging the bulbs.

Clint, VE3CMQ

From: Amateur-repairs@groups.io <Amateur-repairs@groups.io> On Behalf Of Don VE3IDS via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, 24 December 2023 10:53
To: Amateur-repairs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Dan,

Look for " Rough Service Bulbs ". They are still available and are incandescent. A plus is the filament is better supported for knocking around and are usually rated for a little higher voltage ~130. Farm supply stores should have them if the big box stores don't.

73 Don ve3ids

Sunday, 24 December 2023

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

For the large Dim-bulb user- Amazon.

Gary

On 12/24/2023 10:23 AM, Dan wrote:

My startup rig is a 20A Powerstat variac, re-fused down to an appropriate level, a dim bulb tester, and a Kill-A-Watt meter, then the device under test. Works well. The Kill-A-Watt meter has to be slightly modified to display values at low AC input voltages.    Can you even buy incandescent A19/E26 base incandescent bulbs anymore? Maybe Amazon?    Dan  WB4GRA

On Dec 24, 2023, at 10:43 AM, Jim Shorney <jimNU0C@gmail.com> wrote:      Another thing worth noting is that makers of variacs often skip putting a fuse on the output side. Think about transformer theory and you will see why this is important.    73    -Jim  NU0C

On Sun, 24 Dec 2023 09:03:18 -0500  "Tim Reimers KA4LFP" <treimers95@gmail.com> wrote:    "A good rheostat for slowly powering up something that make have been turn  off for the last 20, 30, 40 years."      Couple of points here  A Variac (what you're talking about when you say rheostat)  Does NOT LIMIT CURRENT.  A dead short in a DUT will still destroy components like the DUTs power  transformer, even sometimes at the low voltage a variac provides.    Also, a Variac does not protect you from the AC line. A large (massive)  number of old shortwave radios and other audio gear had "hot chassis"  designs, with no power transformer, and the chassis was physically isolated  from the case.  A so-called AC-AC design.        Best design for a power system for your bench:    Separate GFCI circuit feeding a large isolation transformer, in series with  a Dim Bulb Tester in series with the Variac.    The Dim Bulb Tester does limit current to protect you from those dead  shorted dried out capacitors that will let all the unobtanium smoke out of  your power transformer.    73, Tim KA4LFP            Morse Code: The original digital mode.

      --    73    -Jim  NU0C

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Most of mine are PowerStat variable auto-transformers, many are open, sized from about 110VA to 2+Kva , fed thru a GFCI, and should be fuses for that specific gadget under test, but a lot depends on what you are doing with what, and the situation is with it .

From: Amateur-repairs@groups.io [mailto:Amateur-repairs@groups.io] On Behalf Of bobcolenso via groups.io
Sent: Sunday, December 24, 2023 11:05 AM
To: Amateur-repairs@groups.io
Subject: Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Yep, I stand corrected! Variac, not rheostat.
--

Bob
KD8WU

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Dan,

73 Don ve3ids

On Sun., Dec. 24, 2023, 11:23 a.m. Dan, <pitfit@comcast.net> wrote:

My startup rig is a 20A Powerstat variac, re-fused down to an appropriate level, a dim bulb tester, and a Kill-A-Watt meter, then the device under test. Works well. The Kill-A-Watt meter has to be slightly modified to display values at low AC input voltages.

Can you even buy incandescent A19/E26 base incandescent bulbs anymore? Maybe Amazon?

Dan
WB4GRA
> On Dec 24, 2023, at 10:43 AM, Jim Shorney <jimNU0C@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Another thing worth noting is that makers of variacs often skip putting a fuse on the output side. Think about transformer theory and you will see why this is important.
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
> NU0C
>
>> On Sun, 24 Dec 2023 09:03:18 -0500
>> "Tim Reimers KA4LFP" <treimers95@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> "A good rheostat for slowly powering up something that make have been turn
>> off for the last 20, 30, 40 years."
>>
>>
>> Couple of points here
>> A Variac (what you're talking about when you say rheostat)
>> Does NOT LIMIT CURRENT.
>> A dead short in a DUT will still destroy components like the DUTs power
>> transformer, even sometimes at the low voltage a variac provides.
>>
>> Also, a Variac does not protect you from the AC line. A large (massive)
>> number of old shortwave radios and other audio gear had "hot chassis"
>> designs, with no power transformer, and the chassis was physically isolated
>> from the case.
>> A so-called AC-AC design.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best design for a power system for your bench:
>>
>> Separate GFCI circuit feeding a large isolation transformer, in series with
>> a Dim Bulb Tester in series with the Variac.
>>
>> The Dim Bulb Tester does limit current to protect you from those dead
>> shorted dried out capacitors that will let all the unobtanium smoke out of
>> your power transformer.
>>
>> 73, Tim KA4LFP
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Morse Code: The original digital mode.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
> NU0C
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

My startup rig is a 20A Powerstat variac, re-fused down to an appropriate level, a dim bulb tester, and a Kill-A-Watt meter, then the device under test. Works well. The Kill-A-Watt meter has to be slightly modified to display values at low AC input voltages.

Can you even buy incandescent A19/E26 base incandescent bulbs anymore? Maybe Amazon?

Dan
WB4GRA
> On Dec 24, 2023, at 10:43 AM, Jim Shorney <jimNU0C@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Another thing worth noting is that makers of variacs often skip putting a fuse on the output side. Think about transformer theory and you will see why this is important.
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
> NU0C
>
>> On Sun, 24 Dec 2023 09:03:18 -0500
>> "Tim Reimers KA4LFP" <treimers95@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> "A good rheostat for slowly powering up something that make have been turn
>> off for the last 20, 30, 40 years."
>>
>>
>> Couple of points here
>> A Variac (what you're talking about when you say rheostat)
>> Does NOT LIMIT CURRENT.
>> A dead short in a DUT will still destroy components like the DUTs power
>> transformer, even sometimes at the low voltage a variac provides.
>>
>> Also, a Variac does not protect you from the AC line. A large (massive)
>> number of old shortwave radios and other audio gear had "hot chassis"
>> designs, with no power transformer, and the chassis was physically isolated
>> from the case.
>> A so-called AC-AC design.
>>
>>
>>
>> Best design for a power system for your bench:
>>
>> Separate GFCI circuit feeding a large isolation transformer, in series with
>> a Dim Bulb Tester in series with the Variac.
>>
>> The Dim Bulb Tester does limit current to protect you from those dead
>> shorted dried out capacitors that will let all the unobtanium smoke out of
>> your power transformer.
>>
>> 73, Tim KA4LFP
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Morse Code: The original digital mode.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
>
> 73
>
> -Jim
> NU0C
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Yep, I stand corrected! Variac, not rheostat.
--

Bob
KD8WU

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Another thing worth noting is that makers of variacs often skip putting a fuse on the output side. Think about transformer theory and you will see why this is important.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sun, 24 Dec 2023 09:03:18 -0500
"Tim Reimers KA4LFP" <treimers95@gmail.com> wrote:

> "A good rheostat for slowly powering up something that make have been turn
> off for the last 20, 30, 40 years."
>
>
> Couple of points here
> A Variac (what you're talking about when you say rheostat)
> Does NOT LIMIT CURRENT.
> A dead short in a DUT will still destroy components like the DUTs power
> transformer, even sometimes at the low voltage a variac provides.
>
> Also, a Variac does not protect you from the AC line. A large (massive)
> number of old shortwave radios and other audio gear had "hot chassis"
> designs, with no power transformer, and the chassis was physically isolated
> from the case.
> A so-called AC-AC design.
>
>
>
> Best design for a power system for your bench:
>
> Separate GFCI circuit feeding a large isolation transformer, in series with
> a Dim Bulb Tester in series with the Variac.
>
> The Dim Bulb Tester does limit current to protect you from those dead
> shorted dried out capacitors that will let all the unobtanium smoke out of
> your power transformer.
>
> 73, Tim KA4LFP
>
>
>
>
>
> Morse Code: The original digital mode.
>
>
>
>
>

--

73

-Jim
NU0C

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Excellent advice.

Gary

On 12/24/2023 8:03 AM, Tim Reimers KA4LFP wrote:

"A good rheostat for slowly powering up something that make have been turn off for the last 20, 30, 40 years."

Couple of points here

A Variac (what you're talking about when you say rheostat)

Does NOT LIMIT CURRENT.

A dead short in a DUT will still destroy components like the DUTs power transformer, even sometimes at the low voltage a variac provides.

Also, a Variac does not protect you from the AC line. A large (massive) number of old shortwave radios and other audio gear had "hot chassis" designs, with no power transformer, and the chassis was physically isolated from the case.

A so-called AC-AC design.

Best design for a power system for your bench:

Separate GFCI circuit feeding a large isolation transformer, in series with a Dim Bulb Tester in series with the Variac.

The Dim Bulb Tester does limit current to protect you from those dead shorted dried out capacitors that will let all the unobtanium smoke out of your power transformer.

73, Tim KA4LFP

Morse Code: The original digital mode.

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

"A good rheostat for slowly powering up something that make have been turn off for the last 20, 30, 40 years."

Couple of points here

A Variac (what you're talking about when you say rheostat)

Does NOT LIMIT CURRENT.

A dead short in a DUT will still destroy components like the DUTs power transformer, even sometimes at the low voltage a variac provides.

Also, a Variac does not protect you from the AC line. A large (massive) number of old shortwave radios and other audio gear had "hot chassis" designs, with no power transformer, and the chassis was physically isolated from the case.

A so-called AC-AC design.

Best design for a power system for your bench:

Separate GFCI circuit feeding a large isolation transformer, in series with a Dim Bulb Tester in series with the Variac.

The Dim Bulb Tester does limit current to protect you from those dead shorted dried out capacitors that will let all the unobtanium smoke out of your power transformer.

73, Tim KA4LFP

Morse Code: The original digital mode.

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

One thing on my To-Do list is to install a dedicated power outlet for the Unit Under Test, a power consumption meter like a "Kill A Watt", and a BIG E-STOP button.

A good rheostat for slowly powering up something that make have been turn off for the last 20, 30, 40 years.

Besides ham radio stuff, I've been contemplating vintage audio equipment and what I would need for that. 8Ω dummy loads, AF power meter, AF spectrum analyzer (?)
--

Bob
KD8WU

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Saturday, 23 December 2023

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Thanks, Bob KD8WU, for your thoughts. I, too, have eyes that are getting older. "Setting up a test bench" to me is one of the "fun" things to do during inclement weather - or when something new needs to be done - or when you're going a bit nutty because you're feeling a bit lazy and stuck inside. Let us know how it's going. I'm interested in seeing other hams' workspaces.

Dave W9OCM

Fairmount, IN 46928

On Sat, Dec 23, 2023 at 6:59 AM bobcolenso via groups.io <bobcolenso=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

All this is giving me some ideas also. I like the big screen TV for reading schematics. My eyes are starting to get old.

A lot of people have mentioned a good soldering iron(s). This is very important! Mine is variable up to 750° or so, But I also have different size tips, normal for regular PCB components, and a BIG tip for things that have more thermal mass.

My sig gen is an HP-8648C has more than what I really need (9K to 3G, -139 dBm to +14.5 dBm) [Below 30 MHz S9 is defined as -73 dBm, S1 is -121 dBm, so you want that covered. 40 over S9 is a pretty strong signal AT -33dBm]

Don't go with an elCheapo multimeter with a dial and a needle, you'll get elCheapo results. Get something decent. I have a Boonton 92C, it's an RF mV meter calibrated to 700 MHz has a max full scale of 3 volts, the bottom FS is 3mV and I can read 250, maybe 100 µV.

Also a VTVM for peaking and nulling non-RF levels. Here I use an HP-410-C, which is actually a transistorized VTVM.

A good Frequency Counter.

One thing I just got is a 0 to 450 volt power supply. This I can use on spare part electrolytic caps sitting around.

On the want list is another dummy load and coax so I can put it in the far corner of the basement.

One thing you can do is look at web sites of people who work on radios and see what they use and get ideas from there. You know what you want to do with it, you know your skill level, ect.

Above all; HAVE FUN!

--

Bob
KD8WU

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

All this is giving me some ideas also. I like the big screen TV for reading schematics. My eyes are starting to get old.

A lot of people have mentioned a good soldering iron(s). This is very important! Mine is variable up to 750° or so, But I also have different size tips, normal for regular PCB components, and a BIG tip for things that have more thermal mass.

My sig gen is an HP-8648C has more than what I really need (9K to 3G, -139 dBm to +14.5 dBm) [Below 30 MHz S9 is defined as -73 dBm, S1 is -121 dBm, so you want that covered. 40 over S9 is a pretty strong signal AT -33dBm]

Don't go with an elCheapo multimeter with a dial and a needle, you'll get elCheapo results. Get something decent. I have a Boonton 92C, it's an RF mV meter calibrated to 700 MHz has a max full scale of 3 volts, the bottom FS is 3mV and I can read 250, maybe 100 µV.

Also a VTVM for peaking and nulling non-RF levels. Here I use an HP-410-C, which is actually a transistorized VTVM.

A good Frequency Counter.

One thing I just got is a 0 to 450 volt power supply. This I can use on spare part electrolytic caps sitting around.

On the want list is another dummy load and coax so I can put it in the far corner of the basement.

One thing you can do is look at web sites of people who work on radios and see what they use and get ideas from there. You know what you want to do with it, you know your skill level, ect.

Above all; HAVE FUN!

--

Bob
KD8WU

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Monday, 23 October 2023

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Lots of good feedback and ideas here when it comes to test bench setup. Certain test gear is pretty much a given but there are three key elements of my test bench that have made more of a difference than anything else:

Lighting & magnification. I have a swing-arm lamp with a magnifying lens in the middle of it, and it's an absolute essential for close-up work.
Desoldering gun. I use a Hakko desoldering gun and it's one of the most potent weapons on the bench I do mostly restoration work, so it's essential.
Downsized test gear. Let's face it – most of us don't have the room for full-size scopes and signal generators. The TinySA is extremely powerful, and has fabulous signal generator capabilities, and it's no bigger than my cell phone. It's not the be-all, end-all piece of test gear, but just fine for working with boat anchors, especially as a signal generator for IF and RF alignments or running a quick analysis of oscillator operations. Other gear I've downsized is the scope (to a Siglent digital), and a more robust signal generator (also Siglent).

YMMV!

73 – Steve, KW4H

Tucson, AZ

From: Amateur-repairs@groups.io <Amateur-repairs@groups.io> on behalf of J.D. Barron KE4MD <jeter.d.barron@gmail.com>
Date: Monday, October 23, 2023 at 8:49 AM
To: Amateur-repairs@groups.io <Amateur-repairs@groups.io>
Subject: Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

To add to the earlier comment about soldering irons and mass - You need a nice hefty iron or a big gun to desolder or solder to something that is a pretty good heat sink; like perhaps a nice ft ground plane on a board.
Thinking that a smell iron is somehow better or safer is incorrect as the quicker you get up to temp and finish the job the less damage you are likely to do.
A good assortment of irons for the tasks is a good idea.
I have 10 watt and 150 watt irons (and guns) along with a small butane powered portable iron of unknown wattage.
Often the hot air station is used to do the work or to just preheat so that the irons have less work to do and to reduce thermal stress.
Thanks.
JD
KE4MD

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

I add in an adalm pluto with soft satsagen... As spectrum analyzer and test transmitter for vhf uhf shf.. And maybe another sdr covering shortwave..

Some attenuators... A nanovna v2

A tinysaultra...

And so on

Or in other words it's never complete

Dg9bfc sigi

Am 23.10.2023 07:43 schrieb Richard Knoppow <1oldlens1@ix.netcom.com>:

All suggestions good. I would suggest also an old fashioned large
soldering iron. I had three, all stolen by exterminators. The idea is
that for large items, like can capacitors, you need a soldering iron
with mass. Mass is more important than temperature. A small iron will
not heat large items no matter how hot it gets but it may burn things. A
large iron is more controllable than a heat gun. Heat gun is necessary
for other things.

On 10/22/2023 9:14 PM, David VK2CZ wrote:
> My general purpose bench uses:
>
> Best solder station / vacuum desolder tool you can afford (eg Metcal and
> others). Normal 60/40 solder ( the eco friendly stuff will cause your
> hair to go grey), SMD flux stick, Fibreglass brush to remove solder
> resist, and if your into serious work, conformal coatings, isopropyl
> alcohol and toothbrush / cotton balls.
> Hot air gun to pre-heat connections on large components.
> 30 Gauge insulated wire (to remake broken tracks or wire in mods)
>
> DMM, with continuity beep, multiple test leads with sharp pin ends,
> alligator spring clip ends and SMD tweezer.
> CRO over 100Mhz with 2 or more channels, and ideally with I2C, RS232,
> CAN protocol analysis / trigger abilities..
> PSU with adjustable volts and current limits
> FET/BJT/SCR component tester, great to confirm pinouts when building,
> and confirming go/nogo of suspect devices and LED testing. (never to be
> used on GaAs FETS).
> SIG GEN / Function Gen for audio and RF, again, the best you can afford.
> Old 10w HF rig (to listen and talk to equipment under test)
>
> FLIR camera to identify that component hot spot and excess current
> issue, noting basic ones can be found under $300.
>
> Conductive rubber mat to avoid scratching equipment, noting caution if
> working on gear that has more than 100v floating around.
> hand tools, precision screwdrivers, long socket sets (5.5mm, 6mm, 7mm
> and up), alignment tools, power drill (for 2mm - 32mm drill
> bits/cutters), PCB drill for 0.3mm - 1.4mm drill bits.
> ** Your AC power outlet MUST have RCD / RCBO or earth leakage protection
> fitted, just to protect yourself.
>
> Some ideas, David VK2CZ
>
>

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998

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Sunday, 22 October 2023

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

All suggestions good. I would suggest also an old fashioned large
soldering iron. I had three, all stolen by exterminators. The idea is
that for large items, like can capacitors, you need a soldering iron
with mass. Mass is more important than temperature. A small iron will
not heat large items no matter how hot it gets but it may burn things. A
large iron is more controllable than a heat gun. Heat gun is necessary
for other things.

On 10/22/2023 9:14 PM, David VK2CZ wrote:
> My general purpose bench uses:
>
> Best solder station / vacuum desolder tool you can afford (eg Metcal and
> others). Normal 60/40 solder ( the eco friendly stuff will cause your
> hair to go grey), SMD flux stick, Fibreglass brush to remove solder
> resist, and if your into serious work, conformal coatings, isopropyl
> alcohol and toothbrush / cotton balls.
> Hot air gun to pre-heat connections on large components.
> 30 Gauge insulated wire (to remake broken tracks or wire in mods)
>
> DMM, with continuity beep, multiple test leads with sharp pin ends,
> alligator spring clip ends and SMD tweezer.
> CRO over 100Mhz with 2 or more channels, and ideally with I2C, RS232,
> CAN protocol analysis / trigger abilities..
> PSU with adjustable volts and current limits
> FET/BJT/SCR component tester, great to confirm pinouts when building,
> and confirming go/nogo of suspect devices and LED testing. (never to be
> used on GaAs FETS).
> SIG GEN / Function Gen for audio and RF, again, the best you can afford.
> Old 10w HF rig (to listen and talk to equipment under test)
>
> FLIR camera to identify that component hot spot and excess current
> issue, noting basic ones can be found under $300.
>
> Conductive rubber mat to avoid scratching equipment, noting caution if
> working on gear that has more than 100v floating around.
> hand tools, precision screwdrivers, long socket sets (5.5mm, 6mm, 7mm
> and up), alignment tools, power drill (for 2mm - 32mm drill
> bits/cutters), PCB drill for 0.3mm - 1.4mm drill bits.
> ** Your AC power outlet MUST have RCD / RCBO or earth leakage protection
> fitted, just to protect yourself.
>
> Some ideas, David VK2CZ
>
>

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
SKCC 19998

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

My general purpose bench uses:

Best solder station / vacuum desolder tool you can afford (eg Metcal and others). Normal 60/40 solder ( the eco friendly stuff will cause your hair to go grey), SMD flux stick, Fibreglass brush to remove solder resist, and if your into serious work, conformal coatings, isopropyl alcohol and toothbrush / cotton balls.
Hot air gun to pre-heat connections on large components.
30 Gauge insulated wire (to remake broken tracks or wire in mods)

DMM, with continuity beep, multiple test leads with sharp pin ends, alligator spring clip ends and SMD tweezer.
CRO over 100Mhz with 2 or more channels, and ideally with I2C, RS232, CAN protocol analysis / trigger abilities..
PSU with adjustable volts and current limits
FET/BJT/SCR component tester, great to confirm pinouts when building, and confirming go/nogo of suspect devices and LED testing. (never to be used on GaAs FETS).
SIG GEN / Function Gen for audio and RF, again, the best you can afford.
Old 10w HF rig (to listen and talk to equipment under test)

FLIR camera to identify that component hot spot and excess current issue, noting basic ones can be found under $300.

Conductive rubber mat to avoid scratching equipment, noting caution if working on gear that has more than 100v floating around.
hand tools, precision screwdrivers, long socket sets (5.5mm, 6mm, 7mm and up), alignment tools, power drill (for 2mm - 32mm drill bits/cutters), PCB drill for 0.3mm - 1.4mm drill bits.
** Your AC power outlet MUST have RCD / RCBO or earth leakage protection fitted, just to protect yourself.

Some ideas, David VK2CZ

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Regarding the microscope...IF you have any desire (or think you might in the future) to use a camera with a video camera fitting on it make sure you get a true trinocular scope, ie. you can use both eyepieces at the same time you've engaged your camera. Some of them that are not true trinoncular (read that as less expensive) and you engage the camera you lose the ability to see out of one of the eyepieces, usually the left one.

73 - Dino KLØS

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

I do recommend a power supply that has current limit settings. I did buy one of the switching supplies from China and while it works ok the filtering is not very good and it puts out a lot of noise in radio audio circuits.

For hobby and light duty there are several of the solder rework stations with the hot air wand and soldering pencil for less than $ 100.

If not mentioned a good stereo microscope of about 10 power . Amscope makes a good one for about $ 230. The 4000 series. It has a working distance long enough to make repairs easy.

Ralph ku4pt

On Sunday, October 22, 2023 at 05:57:31 AM EDT, Jim Mcilroy via groups.io <gts53=btinternet.com@groups.io> wrote:

Hi

Equally endorse the tinySA. Use mine regularly when I fix or build stuff. It's partner the nanoVNA is great for filters and antennas but I don't use it as much as the tinySA

Other useful stuff:

Good DMM
elCheapo multimeter with a dial and a needle. If you're looking for a rise or fall in some parameter nothing beats that.

Power supply where you can set a current limit. Plenty of these on the web.
If your budget will run to it get a PSU with buttons and memories. Stops that accidental spinning of the volts knob or putting 12V into a 5V circuit.

Soldering iron and rework station.

Decent function generator - plenty of choice on the web these days.
For receiver tests it's very useful to have an RF signal generator with defined outputs. I bought an Elecraft XG3 years ago. Bit pricy but worth it in those respects.

Decent scope.
My next purchase.
I've been using a Fluke99 ScopeMeter which is good at what it does up to 50MHz. In practice the scope is good up to about 15 MHz. The DMM side is great though so there will always be a place for it.

Power meter and dummy load.

Plenty of spares, components, and junk for improvisation or dealing with unobtainium.

That's my test bench.

Jim. G4EQX

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

... and not forgetting the wet finger, for if you're still around
after probing then it wasn't a 110 / 230 V point ::-)

On Sun, Oct 22, 2023 at 10:57 AM, Jim Mcilroy wrote:
> Equally endorse the tinySA. Use mine regularly when I fix or build stuff. It's
> partner the nanoVNA is great for filters and antennas but I don't use it as
> much as the tinySA
> Good DMM
> elCheapo multimeter with a dial and a needle. If you're looking for a rise or
> fall in some parameter nothing beats that.
> Power supply where you can set a current limit.
> Soldering iron and rework station.
> Decent function generator
> For receiver tests it's very useful to have an RF signal generator with
> defined outputs
> Decent scope.
> Power meter and dummy load.
> Plenty of spares, components, and junk for improvisation or dealing with
> unobtainium.

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

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Saturday, 21 October 2023

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

It is the TinySA and TinySA Ultra. Limited places to buy real ones from but their listed in the TinySA Wiki. The dealers not in the list are most likely selling clones that wont update correctly and fail self test.

https://www.tinysa.org/wiki/

From China, order from Aliexpress Zeenko store. They are one of the authorized sellers and probably the cheapest.

Don K5ZRQ

On Sat, Oct 21, 2023 at 1:40 PM, Donald KX8K
<donhellen@roadrunner.com> wrote:

I was told that there is a tiny spectrum analyzer that works amazingly well from
China. It sells for under $100.

Donald KX8K

On Fri, 20 Oct 2023 22:15:57 +0000 (UTC), "Ralph Mowery KU4PT via groups.io"
<ku4pt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

>There are many items from China that are inexpensive and work very well. Like the function generators. Now almost all electronic has gone to surface mount so unless concentrating on older equipment test equipment has changed. Doubt that the resistor/capacitor subistution box is worth getting now.

----------------------------------------------------
Some ham radio groups you may be interested in:
https://groups.io/g/ICOM https://groups.io/g/Ham-Antennas
https://groups.io/g/HamRadioHelp https://groups.io/g/Baofeng
https://groups.io/g/CHIRP https://rf-amplifiers.groups.io/g/main

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

I was told that there is a tiny spectrum analyzer that works amazingly well from
China. It sells for under $100.

Donald KX8K

On Fri, 20 Oct 2023 22:15:57 +0000 (UTC), "Ralph Mowery KU4PT via groups.io"
<ku4pt=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

>There are many items from China that are inexpensive and work very well. Like the function generators. Now almost all electronic has gone to surface mount so unless concentrating on older equipment test equipment has changed. Doubt that the resistor/capacitor subistution box is worth getting now.

----------------------------------------------------
Some ham radio groups you may be interested in:
https://groups.io/g/ICOM https://groups.io/g/Ham-Antennas
https://groups.io/g/HamRadioHelp https://groups.io/g/Baofeng
https://groups.io/g/CHIRP https://rf-amplifiers.groups.io/g/main

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Friday, 20 October 2023

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

I can't speak for non-communications work, but when I got back into repairing radios (mostly ham radios for local hams) I would not work without a good signal generator. I happened to come across an IFR 1200 Super S communications monitor that I find indispensable. If or when it dies and can't be repaired I would probably quit doing repairs again.
Often the signal generator or power meter and deviations etc are not necessary, but without the ability to accurately test a completed unit I would not start.
Also the next most important or perhaps the most important is repair data, service manuals etc.
I have gotten to where I really don't want to work on a radio without a good PDF file that is clear and hopefully searchable and can have noted and drawings made in it.
You also need a good adjustable power supply, hopefully one that has adjustable voltage and current so that a short circuit would be less dramatic.
Good lighting and a magnifying lamp along with lighted magnifying head glasses (whatever you call them!).
Next would be an assortment of good soldering stations and irons along with hot air rework station for SMD devices.
A nice big, comfortable work station, large enough to spread out and arrange your test equipment and tools.
That does bring up the necessity for a good scope adequate for the work intended. I have a solid state 200 HMZ dual trace scope that I use quite a bit tracing signals etc. This is one of the first tools I use, right after the digital meter.
My bench has a large flat screen (TV) on the wall right in front of the bench and I use it all of the time for displaying those PDFs with the service manuals.
Of course you need the hand tools to work on the unit and also a good set of trays and bins for the screws and parts.
Also necessary would be good shelves to hold equipment waiting on parts (more and more these days) and spare parts along with any other daty you might need.
Good luck and remember to add even more space and storage than you think you need right now.

JD
KE4MD

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Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

There are many items from China that are inexpensive and work very well. Like the function generators.

Now almost all electronic has gone to surface mount so unless concentrating on older equipment test equipment has changed. Doubt that the resistor/capacitor subistution box is worth getting now.

Many super service monitors are on the used market now foe under $ 1000.

Ralph ku4pt

On Friday, October 20, 2023 at 05:15:27 PM EDT, Donald KX8K <donhellen@roadrunner.com> wrote:

This article was in my inbox today. It's about setting up a test and repair

bench, focusing on what test equipment we may need.

It is not focused on amateur radio, but it has some good information for those

just starting out in radio repair, for their own repairs or for a sideline to

make some money.

https://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/article/October2015_Reed

I'm sure everyone has their own favorite pieces of test gear that they would add

to what's recommended, but I thought it was a good start.

Donald KX8K

Re: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

Today we have the TinySA (Spectrum Analyzer), the NanoVNA and the TinyPFA

(Phase Frequency Analyzer. At prices unthinkable 20 years ago.

Also you can have a GPSDO, accuracy traceable to the GPS System.

There are now Digital scopes under $200 that rival the old Tektronix monsters.

You can fit a high class test bench in a briefcase these days.

73, Dick, W1KSZ

From: Amateur-repairs@groups.io <Amateur-repairs@groups.io> on behalf of Donald KX8K <donhellen@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2023 2:15 PM
To: Amateur-repairs@groups.io <Amateur-repairs@groups.io>
Subject: [Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

[Amateur-repairs] SETTING UP A TEST BENCH

This article was in my inbox today. It's about setting up a test and repair
bench, focusing on what test equipment we may need.

It is not focused on amateur radio, but it has some good information for those
just starting out in radio repair, for their own repairs or for a sideline to
make some money.

https://www.nutsvolts.com/magazine/article/October2015_Reed

I'm sure everyone has their own favorite pieces of test gear that they would add
to what's recommended, but I thought it was a good start.

Donald KX8K

----------------------------------------------------
Some ham radio groups you may be interested in:
https://groups.io/g/ICOM https://groups.io/g/Ham-Antennas
https://groups.io/g/HamRadioHelp https://groups.io/g/Baofeng
https://groups.io/g/CHIRP https://rf-amplifiers.groups.io/g/main

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Wednesday, 6 September 2023

Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] OT-how to test and repair DC brushed motors.

Bill, it is easy to make a growler. take a standard transformer with a figure 8 core and cut out a "V" at the intersection of one of the uprights and the crossbar. This should turn the figure 8 into a backwards E. The armature should fit the "V" cut to couple the growler to the armature. Any shorted windings will couple strongly to the AC magnetic field. Use a hacksaw blade to find which of the windings are shorted. Bill in Boulder

On Wed, Sep 6, 2023 at 4:57 PM mike allen <animal@psln.com> wrote:

I used to do a lot of work for the city that I live outside of . Unfortunately sometimes that meant that I had to work on equipment at the sewer ponds & such . Onetime they had put in a new motor tin one of the lift stations hat one of the bosses had bought years before to have for a rainy day . When I got there the wires were all exposed & like a dumb sh** I believed them what I was told it was the exact same motor . Well after some time trying to figure out why it wouldn't run had them pull it which they complained & bitched about . Turned out they bought the same pump but with a different motor . The voltage was off by @ 200 volts .& the motor could not be re-strapped to run at their lower voltage . They ended up sending the original back for repair & rented a trailer mount pump to keep things running . Me being the nice guy I didn't charge them for all my time , I kinda felt sorry for the guy . M otor shops are gettin to be like shoe repair shops , their just ain't as many as there used to be .

animal

On 9/6/23 11:43 AM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

My boss at the laundry always bought new motors when one had problems. Was of some benefit to me as a lot of the ones that weren't absolutely fried followed me home so they wouldn't have to pay to have them hauled away. Only exception was the 60HP 3phase motor. .

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.

Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.

On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 01:18:09 PM CDT, rockindubya via groups.io <jeffwoods95=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill, Just about any starter shop can growl them for you. As far as larger facilities go, if Ron is still at Capitol Electric, tell him Jeff from Warfield and Chapman said hello.
All the guys i knew at Evans Electric and Southwest Electric are retired or ...really retired...
Jeff In Lone Star, TX

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Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] OT-how to test and repair DC brushed motors.

I used to do a lot of work for the city that I live outside of . Unfortunately sometimes that meant that I had to work on equipment at the sewer ponds & such . Onetime they had put in a new motor tin one of the lift stations hat one of the bosses had bought years before to have for a rainy day . When I got there the wires were all exposed & like a dumb sh** I believed them what I was told it was the exact same motor . Well after some time trying to figure out why it wouldn't run had them pull it which they complained & bitched about . Turned out they bought the same pump but with a different motor . The voltage was off by @ 200 volts .& the motor could not be re-strapped to run at their lower voltage . They ended up sending the original back for repair & rented a trailer mount pump to keep things running . Me being the nice guy I didn't charge them for all my time , I kinda felt sorry for the guy . M otor shops are gettin to be like shoe repair shops , their just ain't as many as there used to be .

animal

On 9/6/23 11:43 AM, Bill in OKC too via groups.io wrote:

My boss at the laundry always bought new motors when one had problems. Was of some benefit to me as a lot of the ones that weren't absolutely fried followed me home so they wouldn't have to pay to have them hauled away. Only exception was the 60HP 3phase motor. .

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.

Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.

On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 01:18:09 PM CDT, rockindubya via groups.io <jeffwoods95=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill, Just about any starter shop can growl them for you. As far as larger facilities go, if Ron is still at Capitol Electric, tell him Jeff from Warfield and Chapman said hello.
All the guys i knew at Evans Electric and Southwest Electric are retired or ...really retired...
Jeff In Lone Star, TX

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Re: [atlas-craftsman IO] OT-how to test and repair DC brushed motors.

I called Capitol Electric a couple of weeks ago. Talked to Mark. Said they didn't do DC motors anymore, and didn't know anyone in the area who still did. I guess the cheap import motors aren't worth working on...

My boss at the laundry always bought new motors when one had problems. Was of some benefit to me as a lot of the ones that weren't absolutely fried followed me home so they wouldn't have to pay to have them hauled away. Only exception was the 60HP 3phase motor. They had that overhauled a bit in place, and then replaced it outright when it crapped out again six months or so later. That one had about half a ton of copper wire in it, and the seller of the replacement wanted it back. I'm not sure I could have gotten thing thing in the back of my pick up anyway. 800lb motor, it was.

Bill in OKC

William R. Meyers, MSgt, USAF(Ret.)

Aphorisms to live by:

Good judgement comes from experience. Experience comes from bad judgement.

SEMPER GUMBY!

Improvise, Adapt, and Overcome.
Physics doesn't care about your schedule.
The only reason I know anything is because I've done it wrong enough times to START to know better.

Expect in one hand, expectorate in the other. See which one gets full first.

On Wednesday, September 6, 2023 at 01:18:09 PM CDT, rockindubya via groups.io <jeffwoods95=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:

Bill, Just about any starter shop can growl them for you. As far as larger facilities go, if Ron is still at Capitol Electric, tell him Jeff from Warfield and Chapman said hello.
All the guys i knew at Evans Electric and Southwest Electric are retired or ...really retired...
Jeff In Lone Star, TX

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